King’s Cross Station. Another part of London that isn’t too far away but
was still something I had yet to see. I never seem to get out anywhere, but
maybe that will change now that I have my monthly tube pass. But London isn’t
a concern at the moment, Edinburgh is. I’ve been out of the city a couple
times since I’ve gotten here, but never been out of England proper. That’s a
lie, I was briefly in Wales, but that was fairly uninteresting and I was only
there for a few hours.
But this would prove to be an interesting trip. I was going to Edinburgh,
Scotland for the time span of one week. A different country within the same
nation, quite the paradox indeed. My elation wasn’t at absorbing the history,
though. It sounds stupid, almost like star worship, but the real reason I wanted
to be in Scotland was Irvine Welsh, the brilliant author behind Trainspotting,
The Acid House, Porno, and the list goes on. His stories tend to focus
around Edinburgh, with the characters of Trainspotting and Porno
deeply rooted in the Port of Leith.
This was why I had planned the trip in the first place. I’d read Trainspotting
more times than I could remember, and had just finished with Porno, the
latest story of the skag boys. I had become determined to see the city that was
the home base for these colorful characters. No matter how talented a writer is,
a description of a place is no substitute for being there, and I hadn’t been
there. Even the film version couldn’t possibly do justice to Edinburgh. There’s
something different about actually breathing the air, feeling the stones under
your feet, and fearing roving gangs of drunken Scots to give you a true sense of
a place.
But I wasn’t there yet, I was still at King’s Cross, and I would be for
another half hour or more. The station was a buzz of people unlike anything I’d
ever seen. Granted there weren’t nearly as many people in the train station as
there are in the typical airport of a major city, but the action, the buzzing,
is a little different in a place like this.
The disorganization is probably the biggest factor. There’s a giant board
as you walk through the main doors, and it tells all the trains, the times of
departure, the stops that they will make, but it doesn’t tell you where to get
them. It’s not until ten minutes before your train leaves that you’re going
to figure out what platform to go to. It adds to the adventure, though. From the
minute you hit the station you have to be aware of your surroundings or else you
might miss your train. But that would only happen if you were an idiot. I don’t
think anyone could miss that giant board in the center of the station.
And so we sat, all of us, waiting to find out where to go. Most of us were
tourists, some were pros, and others, like myself, pretended to be a pro but
knew deep down that we were just a bunch of tourists.. I was sticking out like a
sore thumb, hoping I didn’t get pick-pocketed.
"God damn it," I thought to myself, "there’s a Burger King
here." I wanted beef so bad. In this respect, beef is a lot like heroin,
and I hadn’t had a fix in ages. Not since coming over to the isles. The
parents, the grandparents, and my girlfriend, had been sending care packages to
provide me with some beef-like food, but it’s just not the same as a greasy
fast-food burger.
Everyone tells me that the beef here (in Britain) is safe, the safest it’s
ever been, mainly because it’s been so well publicized and citizens have been
demanding that the situation be resolved. So the government says that they’ve
taken care of it and that beef is perfectly fine as of now.
Bullshit. The whole reason that there was such a problem in the first place
was that the government never acknowledged it. If they can go for years without
acknowledging something, then they could just as easily cover something up by
saying that it’s fine. Trust no one, just like The X-Files, it’s the
only way you’re going to survive. Admittedly, I’m weary of lamb too after
the hoof and mouth disease, but I’m starting to think I’ll have to give in
to have some form of red meat in my body.
And salmon, although pink and close to red, certainly does not count. It’s
a tasty treat, and the British love it, but they shouldn’t be putting it on
shitty bagels. If salmon is going to go on a bagel, which is perfectly
acceptable, it should only go on good, authentic, or even semi-authentic bagels.
They don’t know how to do bagels over here, they should leave it to the
Americans. The little bagel chain store in the train station made me feel as a
Mexican would if he was eating at Taco Bell in America. One would think that you
can’t screw up a bagel, it’s simply bread dough in a ring, but somehow, the
British have no idea how to make one come out right.
But, as it looked like it would be the easiest thing in the station on my
stomach, I decided to indulge and shell out the cash for the sub-par bagel
sandwich. I was halfway back to where I was standing before I realized that they
didn’t put any napkins in my bag. I rolled my eyes at my own stupidity. They
never put napkins in your bag in this country. I think I’ve been to one
take-away shop where I was given a napkin with my food, but it seems so far off
that I couldn’t name it if I tried.
I took a bite of the bagel and looked down at my notes. I’ve got maybe half
a page. How the fuck did Thompson do this? Three days and he had a novel, and
most of the time he was on drugs, too twisted to form complete sentences. Here I
am, sober as a tack, and I’m finding it a struggle to write out my very simple
surroundings. I ask myself again; How did he do this?
I thought for a second, and the answer is simple enough: He was a
professional journalist and writer. I’m just a guy who’s hoping to spin a
halfway decent yarn about his week in Edinburgh.
Speaking of Edinburgh, I thought that it might be a good time to check the
board and see if my train’s platform has come up. No dice, but I decided to
take a look at the details of my trip. I read off all of the stations we’re
stopping at in between and start counting.
"Fuck me, nine stops," I thought to myself, "Nine fucking
stops? I might as well start gouging my eyes out now. It’s going to be stop
start, stop start, for five hours. Christ."
But, I had to take into account the circumstances. I was in a nation, much
like the rest of Europe, which is still incredibly dependent on its railways.
The reason for this is simple enough; it’s big enough to limit the feasibility
of travel only by automobile, but too small for it to be a necessity to travel
around the country by plane. The simple solution is obviously the railroad. It
combines the relative ease of air travel with mass transit amongst points in a
specific line so that the needs of the many can be met. Train stations can be
very small and are much easier to maintain than airports. The other factor is
how much cheaper the train is.
While Europe is apparently inundated with a number of cheap airlines and the
ability to fly inexpensively from city to city, there are a lot of factors that
make the task of using the cheap flight fairly difficult.
For one, advertising at £17.50 is a crock, considering you generally have to
pay at least another £20 in airport taxes. On top of that, the ticket in
question is usually one way, so by the time things add up, you’ve effectively
been sodomized and you don’t even realize it. Yes, the prices are much lower
than anything you would pay in the States, but when you can hop the rail for
£36 on a round trip ticket, even with the nine stops in between departure and
arrival, you’re still making out like a bandit.
So I was left pondering the state of this country. A nation that depends on
the railroads, can’t make a bagel, and doesn’t believe in giving you
napkins. Of course, that is a description of the nation as seen through a rail
traveler. The panorama of pros and cons only expands as you step out into the
heart of the country. There’s so much more to go into, but that’s not the
point of this story. The point is me on my way to Edinburgh. Me on the way to
Leith. Scotland; part the same country, a different world.
I looked up at the sign as the platform was announced. Number seven. I
grabbed my bag, hiked my backpack up a little higher, and set out. It was
happening. And I didn’t have to deal with another soul while I did this.